Monday, March 26, 2012

Last day as a Brit in Ecuador, last blog

I came to Ecuador 20 months ago, to the day. Now it is time to leave. I have a flight to Tokyo tonight. Well actually flying to Tokyo from Quito is quite a complicated trip, and even though I leave tonight, a Monday evening, I won't arrive until Thursday morning.

I came to Ecuador for the adventure, to free us some time for writing and to get some teaching experience. I arrived without a job or even a place to live. But it all came together somehow. I'm leaving with a store of memories, university level teaching experience and I've managed to get six manuscripts accepted for publication (1,2,3,4,5,6). I've even got a research project started.

If you want to continue to read about a Brit in Ecuador, luckily somebody else has started doing it. He lives in Quito too, and bizarrely he is even using the same blog title: (the other) A Brit in Ecuador.

Or to follow my exploits in Japan, I'll be writing for a new blog, Gringo to Gaijin



Hasta Luego, Pet
Graham


Friday, March 23, 2012

To Lima, via the Inca sites


From Nasca we took a bus to Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru. Just at the right altitude, it has a near perfect climate of sunny weather every day. It is surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes. Snow-white volcanic rock was used to construct many of the colonial era buildings.

Next we flew to Cusco and immediately took a taxi to Ollantaytambo, an Inca town still in use. Indeed most of the town was built by the Incas. You can hike up the surrounding hills for excellent views and to see the ruins of several Inca store houses. These ruins on the hills are free to enter and don't attract many tourists. Most tourists come (briefly) to look at the easier access Temple and agricultural terrace structures on Cerro Bandolista which also overlooks the town.

Of course, the big daddy of Inca sites is Maccu Pichu, and the is where we headed next. We went by train  to the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. From there you can take buses to the ruins. We took the first of the day at 5:30. Going early means you beat the hoards, but in our case it was rainy and foggy when we arrived, negating that advantage.

I went up Huayna Picchu, the mountain that overlooks Maccu Pichu. It only takes about 90 minutes, but it is a tough hike. The reward is magnificent views over the Inca city.

Back in our hotel in Aguas Calientes, we found several Dawson Flies. This one on a lamp was about  4 or 5 inches long.

There are lots of other Inca sites in the region. These are the circular terraces at Moray. Such terraces were commonly used by the Incas to cultivate crops on otherwise hilly and mountainous terrain. It is hypothesized that the site at Moray was an agricultural laboratory, were the Incas tested which crops grow best in various conditions. 

The Incas also harvested salt. Spring water with a high salt content was used to fill  hundreds of pools which are then left for the water to evaporate. These in Salinas are still in use today.

Finally, we have returned to the capital city. Lima is hot and humid and crowded and polluted.  There is a  permanent smog that hides the sun during the day and produces a curiously pink sunset. But I like it. Tomorrow I return to Quito for what will be my last day as a Brit in Ecuador. 

Sunday, March 11, 2012

La Paz (Bolivia) to Nasca (Peru)


We took a bus  from La Paz to Copacabana. This is the main town on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. Apart from being on the lake, it also has a rather nice basilica.

Lake Titicaca is huge, and the was at the heart of the Inca Empire, many of the Inca creation legends involve the lake. It is at a similar elevation to  La Paz and so can be quite cool, despite having blazing sun that can quickly burn you. Well it did me anyway. We left Copacabana for Puno, which is also on the banks of the Lake, but on the Peruvian side. 

From Puno we took the train to Cuzco. The trains here run through town centers. In the  town of Juliaca it runs right through the middle of a market. Vendors move their stalls when the train comes, and some leave their stock between the tracks. I took this photo from the back of the train as we passed through.

Cuzco was the capital city of the Inca Empire. Today it still contains many Inca features, and  a huge amount of well preserved colonial architecture. Unfortunately it is also heavily touristed. The main plaza has a McDonalds, a Starbucks and a KFC, an unusual level of North American cultural encroachment for a Latin American city. 

We left Cuzco for a 12 hour bus journey to Nasca, but Pacha Mama had other plans. This is the flooded road that our bus was supposed to take. The bus journey ended up taking 26 hours. 

Floods were not the only threat. There were literally hundreds of rock falls and land slides on the road. Often the rocks were the size of  cars. Somehow the bus driver managed to negotiate all of them. 

Nasca is a really nice little Peruvian town, but people don't come just for that. They come to see the line patterns in the desert, made by a pre-columbian culture. The patterns can only be seen from aircraft. We took an over flight to see several of them, but they don't photograph well. Tomorrow we leave for Arequipa, which is the second largest city in Peru.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

La Paz, Bolivia

My time in Ecuador is almost complete, so before I leave South America for Asia, I've come to Bolivia for a bit of tourism. My plan had always been to have some backpacking time after I finished work in Ecuador. As this panned out, I only have three weeks before I need to get to Japan to start my next job. So three weeks isn't much time for backpacking, but hopefully I can take in a bit of Bolivia and southern Peru, before returning to Quito for one night to collect bags and set off for Tokyo.

The main thing about La Paz is its altitude. It is around 3,650 meters (11,975 ft) above sea level, which means oxygen is scarce. In fact, it is not recommended that anybody fly here direct from low altitude. I came direct from 19 months living in Quito, another high altitude city, but still the thin air got to me. It is difficult to walk up stairs or hills at high altitude, and La Paz is all hills. You adapt with time, but until then any exercise results in a racing pulse, headache and a general feeling of knackerdness. Though it is a nice place, with plenty or quirks. One of which is llama products. Llama meat is sold in the restaurants and dried llama fetuses are sold on market stalls for good-luck symbols. It also has a very large indigenous population. Below are a few of my photos (and a graph).

Height above sea level in meters



Plaza Murilllo, La Paz

La Paz: A city in the clouds


In the roads around government buildings there are permanent military road blocks.

Indigenous women protesting crime and corruption

Dried llama fetuses, and dried baby llamas for sale in la Paz, along with other nik naks


Saturday, February 25, 2012

The Research Project: Cognitive Function of Socioeconomically Deprived Adolescents (Funciones Cognitivas de Adolescentes Socioeconómicamente Desfavorecidos)


This is a research project that I’ve been working on for about a year, in fact it has taken up a lot of my time. The idea is to look at cognitive function, e.g. IQ, reasoning and social-cognition in a sample of youths that would be described as ‘street children’. It is a progression from my research in the UK into cognitive function in homeless adults, e.g. this and this. I’m using the term street children cautiously, as it is a little out of vogue these days to refer to them as such, when in reality they are characterised by a huge spectrum of different social and economic problems. Nevertheless, UNICEF has a definition of street child, and this is what we have used:

“any girl or boy who has not reached adulthood, for whom the street (in the broadest sense of the word, including unoccupied dwellings, wasteland, etc.) has become her or his habitual abode and/or sources of livelihood, and who is inadequately protected, supervised or directed by responsible adults”.

In fact, the problem of poor children living in the streets is very typical of developing countries, including Ecuador. It is estimated that tens of millions of children live in the streets worldwide, about 7 million of whom are in Latin America. A distinction is often made between children of the street and children in the street. The former are literally homeless and the latter have a place to live but make their living in the urban public environment. The situation in Ecuador is mainly of children in the street, and they are not as conspicuously poor as the roofless and homeless children of the street seen in other Latin American countries.  In many countries they are seen as vermin and are frequently victims of violence. Sometimes killed by vigilantes or even rogue police officers. Though things are not so extreme here in Ecuador.

Most street children in Ecuador are working,
e.g. selling newspapers or fruit to motorists

or traipsing around bars at night selling, e.g. chewing gum

Our aim in the research is to test two hypotheses. Firstly, children in Quito who match the UNICEF definition will report high levels of post traumatic stress disorder, and this will be associated with lower cognitive function, i.e. indicating that trauma may have slowed cognitive development. Secondly, and on a more positive note, we have hypothesised that as they have to survive in a hostile environment, they may have developed better than would be expected skills for social cognition, such as reading emotions in peoples’ faces. This second hypothesis is of particular interest as it may challenge stereotypes. Better than normal skills in such populations are possible. Studies performed with Brazilian youths that work in the streets have demonstrated exceptional mathematical ability, because, despite their lack of formal education, they need maths to trade. 

Yesterday the data collection with the children started. We did 4 interviews, well my students did. My Spanish isn’t good enough so I’m relying on my student volunteers; Vicky, Sofia and Daniel. Most of the children we are interviewing are not currently street children; they would be too difficult to access. Instead we have developed a collaboration with a catholic project in South Quito for poor children considered at risk. The name of the charity is ‘Su Cambio por el Cambio’, and they do fantastic work with about 300 children who would have few options in life otherwise. The project provides all day services; breakfast, lunch, sports classes in the mornings and formal and practical education in the afternoons. The ones we are interviewing over the next few weeks are those that fulfilled the UNICEF definition before coming to ‘Proyecto Social Su Cambio por el Cambio’. They are pretty well-behaved and incredibly friendly; the young ones often come over for hugs. 

We are interviewing 40 of the children, and will also be interviewing 20 not at risk children from a local school, as the comparison group. This type of research takes a long time to plan. That is why after a year we have only just begun data collection. First of all we tried to get funding, unsuccessfully, from the International Neuropsychology Fellowship Fund of the British Psychological Society (I’m sure the projects they chose to fund are much better and deserving). Then we had to gain ethics committee approval. This is never easy and doubly difficult when you wish to research a vulnerable group, as we did. In fact our group are doubly vulnerable, as the committee pointed out, both very poor and children. Funding and ethics applications add months of bureaucracy and paperwork. Though I might add, that Comité de Bioetica de Universidad de San Francisco where the most efficient and helpful that I’ve ever dealt with.  This was something of a godsend as I was struggling to provide the necessary documentation, much of it in Spanish.

So now the project is underway. Academic research is not common in this country, but it is possible. Hopefully much of the data collection can be completed before I leave Ecuador. If not, my students are gaining valuable experience, and will be able to continue after I leave.

Many thanks to ‘Proyecto Social Su Cambio por el Cambio’ who have been extraordinarily cooperative with this, despite having more important things to do.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Teaching English (and Psychology, in English) in Ecuador


I arrived in Ecuador in July 2010, with a somewhat vague idea of working as a teacher. Nineteen months later, I've trained as a teacher, taught at two universities, two language institutes and now stopped teaching. Stopped teaching here in Quito that is. I'm now preparing to move to Tokyo, to take up a lectureship at Chuo University.

Finding work as an English teacher in Ecuador isn’t difficult; there is a constant need for native speakers. But the conditions and pay will vary greatly. Backpackers turning up with little experience may receive as little as $5 per hour working at language institutes. The hours will be long but not too taxing, big employers here are English First and Wall Street. Those with teaching experience, or just the knowhow to find better jobs, could earn up to $20 per hour (e.g. at UDLA). I worked, for a while, at Southern Cross who employ only people with a CELTA qualification, their pay is somewhat better than other language institutes, but still less than the ‘real jobs’ in, e.g., universities and international schools.

Southern Cross also runs the most exotic CELTA training programme. CELTA is the Certificate in Language Teaching to Adults, awarded by the University of Cambridge. It is an entry level training course, usually over four weeks. The Ecuadorian one is different, it is taught on a pacific beach. All things considered, it is probably cheaper than ones taught in European or North American cities. I did the Southern Cross beach CELTA and they hired me to teach shortly afterwards. I didn’t even ask for a job, I was just asked to pop in and then given a schedule (starting in two hours). But then I never left either. They just stopped giving me schedules. This is the issue with language institutes, they are inherently flaky.

I never really wanted any language institute work anyway. My plan all along was to work in universities, as this is what I’d done all my life in the UK (I'm a research psychologist). I was hired fairly quickly to teach English at Universidad San Francisco de Quito (USFQ). But what you find with the universities in Ecuador is that they don’t like to take people on full-time, so multiple part-time positions are the norm.

Me with psychology students at USFQ

I was also able to get part-time psychology teaching work at USFQ. In fact, they were very friendly and accommodating, and ran two courses especially for me to teach, in English: ‘Health Psychology’ and ‘Depression’. USFQ is possibly the only university in the country with enough English speaking students to make this possible. I could have taught elsewhere easily, if I could have taught in Spanish. People with PhDs here are quite rare and sought after. However, if you don't speak Spanish well, opportunities  are limited, though one other option for English speaking psychologists (or linguists) is teaching on ‘Applied Linguistics’ courses. These are really just training courses for Ecuadorians who want to teach English professionally. They are taught mainly in English. I very nearly took up a part-time position teaching psycholinguistics on one of these courses at PUCE.


However, Christmas eve bought the news that I have a new job in Japan, so I pulled out of the PUCE psycholinguistics job, and cancelled my courses at USFQ. I still have some psychology research going on here. As a psychologist that is another option. More of that in my next blog.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Montañita, Olón and Salinas

So I'm back on the free wifi at Guayaquil airport, as I was about 18 months ago towards the start on my Ecuador visit. Then I was heading towards Montañita to train as an English teacher, now I've finished teaching in Ecuador and returning from a weekend break to Montañita. I only really went to visit somebody there, and to stay nearby. Montañita is the hedonist capital of Ecuador. It is full of Ecuadorians, Argentinians and gringos from various countries. They come for the beach, the bars and the drugs. It is either a tropical paradise or a tourist hell-hole, depending on your perspective. For me it's the latter, but lots of people seem to love it.

Sewage collection truck bearing the message: 'Montañita  Tourist Paradise'

Montañita

We only spent one night there, and most of that was at Playa Kamala, a couple of miles up the coast, the site of the CELTA training course I took back in September 2010.

Next, we stayed one night in Olón. This is the next village along from Montañita, much more sleepy, but still very much a tourist beach resort. Ecuadorians love the beach and flock to them during the public holidays, Olón is one for the Ecuadorians, not a lot of foreign tourists here. Although Olón is somewhat nicer than Montañita, it is still very much a basic-level weekend break resort.

Much more up-market is Salinas, this is the holiday resort for the rich Ecuadorians, known here as 'pelucones', which translates as wig wearers. Salinas is not just a beach, but has lots of high rise hotels and a maritime port, popular thus with yacht owners. We stayed two nights here, but unfortunately on the second night there was a torrential downpour. Cooled the air nicely but flooded the streets and the drainage system. The stench completely destroyed my desire for an ice cream.

Salinas, affluence and effluence

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Last Day in Colombia

Today we set off back to Quito, by bus from Popayan. It is going to take ages. At least four buses and a border crossing.

Our last days in Colombia were during Popayan's 'Blancos y Negros' festival. Supposedly a celebration of racial diversity, it is mainly a big fight where people hurl water bombs, throw talc and squirt 'fun foam' at each other. Some people carry pots of paint to smear on the faces of strangers. It's loco. Below are a few photos from the festival.
Pavement skirmish

Foam spray attack from a balcony


I might have got somewhat
involved in the fun

Group mayhem at an open-air concert
A drive-by foaming


Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Cali, Popayan and San Agustín (Colombian Christmas Continued)




After Medellín we came to Cali, the bus ride wasn´t too bad, and Cali turned out to be somewhat nicer than Medellín. Still hot though, and lots of nibbling insects. From Cali we took another bus to Popayan, which has been the real gem so far. It is a very nice small town, with lots of colonial style buildings.


Popayan
Popayan

We were there for New Year´s Eve. The tradition here is to build a human effigy to represent the problems of the past year, and then blow it up at midnight. Our hostel was run by a Scot and so we had tatties and neeps for our dinner. This hogmany celebration was of course completed by draging the effigy into the street, dousing it with petrol and lighting it at midnight. The guts are stuffed with fireworks so after a couple of minutes it starts to explode.





We only stayed one night in Popayan as we wanted to get to San Agustín, a small town with lots of archeological sites nearby. The route to San Agustín is rough, a long dusty dirt road, it takes 6 hours by bus and four by camioneta (a 4 x 4 pick-up truck with seats in the back). It is hard travelling at the best of times, but we had a particularly loony driver who was taking shots of whiskey whilst driving. But we got there. After two nights we are now heading back to Popayan, via a stop over in San Jose, which has some more archelogical sights to visit.  


Statue at San Agustin
archaeological  park
Horses on the central plaza, San Jose
San Agustín as seen from our hotel

Followers

About Me

My photo
I am a British academic who teaches and researches internationally. I have a PhD in Psychology from University College London and I'm an honorary research fellow of the University of Sheffield. During 2012-2013 I taught Psychology and conducted research at Chuo University in Tokyo. However, I am now based in Quito, Ecuador, where I am a professor of psychology at Universidad San Francisco de Quito.